Food and Drinq

Paraguay is a tiny country, so it seems fitting that Arbol Cafe -- the city's first Paraguayan cafe -- is small. How small? About 10 seats, plus a swell outside dining area. BYOB, of course. And cash only. It's at Second and Poplar Streets in Northern Liberties, across from Standard Tap (entrance is at 207 Poplar). Open from 7 a.m. till whenever weekdays, and 9 a.m. till whenever on weekends. (Whenever has stretched till 7 p.m., but call first: 215-284-5788.)

Owners are Oscar Acuna, a Paraguayan expat who's worked at kitchens all over town for the last eight years, and his wife, Beth. Occasionally, you'll see their 3-year-old daughter, Lailah, who will charm the heck out of you.

There's coffee and the usual baked goods at the counter. Acuna's menu is tight and light: There's a sandwich called lomito, which has steak, egg, smoked turkey-ham, letuce, tomato and cheese on brioche. Another sandwich, the palmito, is most interesting, as it's a mixture of crushed hearts of palm and mayo on crust-free white bread. Breakfast sandwiches include "broken eggs" (poor photo below), which Acuna cracks over the pan while allowing the yolk to run into the white for a marble effect; the yolk sets completely.

Weekend brunch specials include delicious meatballs (it's called so'o apu'a); good ol' arroz on pollo; and asado a la olla con kiveve (a boneless beef short rib).