Food and Drinq

Valet zone, 200 block of Chestnut St., 7:25 p.m. 12/31/07

The opening of a Cheesecake Factory usually portends a rise in business in nearby restaurants, say my friends in commercial real estate. The thinking is that Cheesecake goes where the retail action is, and actually becomes a destination itself. In effect, the thinking goes, Cheesecake creates its own overflow. Let's go to Willow Grove, where Cheesecake opened in Willow Grove Park on Sept. 20. The mall's T.G.I. Friday's seemed crowded over the holiday season, as did the Olive Garden across Easton Road. But nothing helped the Romano's Macaroni Grill location across Moreland Road. It recently closed.

Last March, Benny Lai of the popular Vietnam restaurant in Chinatown let on that he was planning a BYO offshoot in West Philly, next to Fu-Wah, a convenience store he owns. He was saying "summer" for the opening.

Now, it's safe to pencil in Jan. 21 for Vietnam Café, a 30-seater at 814 S. 47th St. (near Baltimore Avenue), open Tuesdays through Sundays from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Phone: 215-729-0260. Menu will be somewhat tighter than Vietnam's -- only 80 items.

Designer Jesse Gardner (Vietnam, Teikoku) calls the look "Chinese modern," with a sleek style befitting the neighborhood and the desire for quick turnover (students who eat and run).

Photo: April Saul (2001) / The Philadelphia Inquirer

In Week Nine of "The Making of Zahav," the restaurant gets its frame-out and a $20,000 heating and air-conditioning system. And the workers fire up the wood stove for some hot carbs. Go here to see the latest entry.

It was nowhere near a lake -- and nowhere near a deli, for that matter. Lakeside Chinese Deli, doling out dumplings on Ninth near Race for 19 years, has closed. A sign on the door posted over the weekend mentions retirement and charitably points customers to Imperial Inn. I'm trying to track down owner Brenda Leung.

Despite the shabby looks, Inquirer critic Craig LaBan awarded it two bells back in 2001.

When one door closes, another opens. I'm hearing about the comeback of a long-closed Chinatown favorite. Stay tuned.

Photo by Michael S. Wirtz / The Philadelphia Inquirer

Two updates on projects from the annals of Table Talk.

Remember Aden, the Mediterranean BYOB that had a neat little run from April 2000 till June 2005 in the Northern Liberties space that now houses Copper Bistro? When Hadar Nisimi closed, he promised that he'd resurface in the neighborhood. He's due before the Northern Liberties Neighbors Association on Monday to talk about it. His new location is a block north: 710 N. Second St., a few doors from the posh Sovalo. Nisimi told me that the name is not nailed down; concept will be Mediterranean, including French and Greek. He's also hoping for a liquor license. No opening date yet.

Photo at left: Aden, in late 2000. Eric Mencher / The Philadelphia Inquirer

To follow up the partnership of chef David Katz and investor Andrew Krouk, first mentioned right here in "Food & Drinq" on Dec. 31: For their bistro at 24th and Locust Streets, they've hired an architect, Brett Weber, a Center Citizen who's designed the Puma stores as well as Lolita. Concept and name are still in development. Construction is due to start Feb. 1.

Cast your eyes to 10th and Spruce. Not only is the short-lived Sauce (on the northeast corner) getting new life as a casual Mexican spot from the owner of Old City's GiGi. Just heard from Konstantinos Pitsillides, whom you may remember from the recently closed Meze in South Philly, that he's taking over the venerable Logan's, the coffee shop on the northwest corner, as a BYOB. (Logan's declined to confirm this, but I hear that it's about to shut down.) Pitsillides says the concept of Kanella -- that's Greek for "cinnamon" -- will be Greek Cypriot. What's that? Pitsillides, who grew up on the Mediterranean island, calls it an amalgam of Greek, Turkish, French and Italian -- basically a round-up of the conquerors. He hopes to open in March. Pitsillides worked in London for 14 years and briefly worked at Bistro St. Tropez.

If you're a food-follower, you know that Eric Ripert -- the three-star executive chef of Le Bernardin -- will set up shop this spring in the grand lobby of the Ritz-Carlton with a restaurant. Ripert has been on a tear of late, opening eateries such as Westend Bistro in D.C. and Blue and Periwinkle, both at the Ritz-Carlton Grand Cayman.

In advance of the big announcement on Jan. 22, I hear that the name will be 10 Arts by Eric Ripert, playing off the hotel's address, 10 S. Avenue of the Arts. (I guess 10 S. Broad St. or "10 Broad" doesn't have the same ring.) I've also heard that the chef whom Ripert will bring in to run it is a woman who grew up in Philadelphia. (Hence, "10 Broad" would also be sexist.) Concept will be American cuisine with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients.

Here's the first word on the project, from The Inquirer of May 20, 2007:

INQlings
Hot N.Y. chef will check in here

First time Eric Ripert came to Philadelphia a year and a half ago, he stepped into the lobby of the Ritz-Carlton across from City Hall.
The much-honored chef from New York's Le Bernardin did what everyone does: looked up at the 140-foot ceiling modeled on the Pantheon and did an oh-wow.

Last week, Ripert and hotelier Craig Spencer struck a deal to place a Ripert restaurant in the lobby. Don't call yet for a rez - it's nearly a year out as part of a multimillion-dollar renovation.

Though name and concept haven't been nailed down, it will be "sexy, modern, sophisticated and casually elegant - keeping the grandeur of the dome but at the same time creating an intimate space," Ripert said Friday. Unlike his formal New York seafood restaurant - where adherents drop $107 and up for the tasting menu - this will be a "good value in terms of price." He said he'd export a chef from Le Bernardin to run the kitchen.

Ripert (sounds like "repair") consults for Ritz-Carlton, with two restaurants in Grand Cayman, and just announced a similar project at the Ritz-Carlton in D.C.'s West End.

January is the cruelest month of the year. Count out one established establishment and one yearling.

1. Today (1/10) is the finale for Logan's, the Greek diner/coffeeshop that has held the northwest corner of 10th and Spruce for 27 years. Owner Jenny Kravaris told me that the family is tired and would not miss that commute from the western suburbs. New restaurant is planned there: Kanella. See yesterday's posting.

2. A Taste of Saigon, which pleased palates in Sewell (Washington Township, Gloucester County) for less than six months, closed. Owner Peter Tat says his sister, the chef, didn't want to continue. He's thinking of going to culinary school and opening his own place. An Italian restaurant -- radical! -- is poised to take the space.

South Jersey Independent Restaurant Association, the group of non-chain dining operators on the east side of the Delaware, is planning its next Restaurant Week promotion for March 9-14.

You may recall that the Center City District sued the "SJ Hot Chefs" in federal court over the look of its ads for the semiannual promotion. The CCD felt that the Jersey group's materials were confusingly similar. The matter was settled out of court.

While the SJ Hot Chefs' new ads are not finished, the group is following the CCD's lead in pricing the promotion, dollar for dollar. CCD members raised the price $5 -- so now it's $35 a head for its next Center City District Restaurant Week (Jan. 27-Feb. 1). That's what the 60 Jersey restaurants will charge for four-course meals, plus tax, drinks and tip.

Update: Joe Palombo of Joe Palombo's Mirabella Cafe, who heads SJ Hot Chefs, weighs in to explain the price increase:

Corn is up because its being used for bio-fuel Chickens feed on corn so chicken is up. eggs almost doubled this year. Our supposedly cheap pasta is way up - Semolina and other wheat flours more than doubled last month partly due to bio-fuel. The price of gas has contributed to the increases greatly. Milk doubled last year. All seafood and fish is up 10 to 40% this year. Veal rose 20% this year. Real good olive oil is almost cost prohibitive now for some restaurants.(I still use it) The weakening dollar abroad has driven up most imported foods. The price increase occurred only to keep up the high standards & fine quality that our South Jersey dining public expect from its independent restaurants.

Bistro M -- I had to use a capital "B" to start a sentence, but it's really (maddingly) "bistro M" -- is the stylish spot inside the new Murray's Deli in Berwyn (575 Lancaster Ave, 610-644-1010).

The opening chef, Tim Olivett, didn't work out after two months or so. Bob and Gayle Teti have tapped Joseph Dougherty, former of Wilmington's Hotel Du Pont.

Here's a sampling of his menu:

Small Plates

Shrimp Bisque, $11
Organic Mixed Greens Salad with Marinated Exotic Mushrooms, Edamame, Ginger Miso Vinaigrette, $11
Spiced Poached Anjou Pear Salad, with Mixed Organic Greens, Danish Blue Cheese, Toasted Almonds, Crispy Pancetta, $11
Pickled Beet Carpaccio, with local Chevre Goat Cheese, Baby Organic Greens, Clementine Vinaigrette, (no price available)
Crispy Calamari, with Polenta Crust, Baby Arugula & Cilantro, Chili-Lime Aioli, $11
A daily risotto
Pan Seared Diver Scallops, with Sweet Potato Puree, Prosciutto Crisp, $13

Big Plates

Cedar Planked Organic Scottish Salmon, with Shaved Fennel Salad, Parsnip Puree, Olive and Tomato Gremolata, $26

Pan Seared Mahi Mahi, with Balsamic and Cranberry Scented Quinoa, Sautéed Exotic Mushrooms, Swiss Chard, $23
Sage and Lemon Organic Chicken, with Fingerling Potatoes, Roasted Exotic Mushrooms, Vidalia Onion Marmalade, Sage Scented Jus, $20
Steak Frites (Garlic and Herb Marinated Flat Iron Steak, Parmesan and Truffle Pomme Frites, Haricots Verts, Glazed Pearl Onions, Balsamic Demi Glace), $30
Pancetta Wrapped Pork Tender Loin, with Apple Barley, Roasted Cabbage, Apple Port Wine Reduction, $24
Sweet Onion Tart, with Tomato Scented Beluga Lentils, Stuffed Zucchini, Mixed Organic Greens, $18

Phila-Deli, that popular stop at 410-12 South St. for 32 years, will close in less than a month, owner Marvin Finkelstein confirmed today (1/13/08). The building was sold, and the new owner (a New Yorker who owns at least three dozen properties in the South Street area) wants retail. Finkelstein says he's not sure what's next -- though a relocation does not seem in the cards.

What can Peter Dunmire, David Katz, Matt Ball and Joe Hunt all claim? The title of chef at Silk City (Fifth and Spring Garden) in its seven months under owner Mark Bee.

Dunmire, who's been with Bee for some time at Bee's other place, N3rd, created the menu for the June opening. Dunmire returned to N3rd in September, when Katz took over. But Katz's tenure turned out to be two stormy weeks, so Dunmire jumped back in. Ball, who signed on Oct. 1, was freed to seek new employment last Thursday (1/10), Bee confirms. "Didn't work out," Bee says.

For now, sous chef Vinnie DeSisto -- who's worked with Dunmire at N3rd since Day One -- is running Silk City's kitchen.

Hunt, whose resume includes Bluezette and Jones and who turns out a mean mac and cheese, starts Feb. 1.

Susan Schlisman, who owns the Sam’s Grill spots in Wynnewood and Jenkintown as well as Devil’s Alley at 1907 Chestnut St., plans to take over the northwest corner of 11th and Sansom Streets for a third Sam’s Grill — think comfort food and a low-key vibe. She plans to install Terry Owens, now running the kitchen in Wynnewood, as executive chef and is hoping to open this summer.

Also in the nabe: Expect an opening "soon" at the southeast corner of 10th and Chestnut Streets for Blue in Green, marking a return to the hipster breakfast-lunch game for Michael Baer. He’s opened and closed two Blue in Greens, first in Old City and a second on Jeweler’s Row.

Five Guys Famous Burgers & Fries is expanding rapidly. The Michael Salove Co. reports signed leases at the Bala Cynwyd Shopping Center in Bala Cynwyd, Center Point Place at Street and York Roads in Warminster, and Parkway Plaza on Scoth Road in Ewing, N.J. Those locations are among the 10 in the area.

Salove also has signed leases for Five Guys at:

- Hamilton Commons in Mays Landing, N.J.
- Lawrence Park Shopping Center in Broomall, PA
- Town Square Plaza in Sicklerville, N.J. .
- East Gate Square in Moorestown, N.J.
- Eagle Plaza in Voorhees, N.J.

Penang, the popular Malaysian BYOB in Chinatown, is closed for a "couple weeks" for a clean-up/redecoration, a manager told me. As for the Penang under construction (and opening next month) at 480 Route 38 East in Maple Shade, it's a separate entity but owned by a branch of the same family. This will be related to the Penang in West Windsor.

No new restaurant is up to full speed on Day One. Some never get there.

Kaizan, the swanky, new Japanese restaurant inside the Academy House, is acknowledging that it's shaking out the bugs. It's extending a 15 percent discount through the end of January.

A sign greets prospective patrons at the papered windows of Penang in Chinatown.

The long-shuttered Ho Sai Gai location on the corner of 10th and Race Streets will be reborn, says the restaurant's Kathy Lo. Owners also have a Ho Sai Gai around the corner on 10th Street as well as a Ho Sai Gai in Port Richmond. Lo says the 10th and Race location, down now about nine years, will be renovated by summer.

Peacock on the Parkway, the lobby of the Windsor at 1700 Ben Franklin Parkway, since the early 1990s, was retooled this week into a somewhat refined white-tablecloth Japanese concept called Kujaku, which means "peacock."

No surprise -- the owner of Peacock still has a hand in it. Managing partner Bo Choi, who owns Uzu Sushi in Old City (after a turn at Fuji Mountain), has brought in as chef Maurice DeRamus, last at Zen in Northern Liberties. Kujaku is open for "late breakfast" ("9 o'clock or so) through late lunch ("3 or so") weekdays.

Breakfast menu includes American items (eggs, tofu scramble, challah French toast) and soy ginger hanger steak ($12), grilled glazed salmon ($12) and maple duck hash ($12). Lunch menu is more Asian, with a full line of sushi/sashimi.

Sunday brunch, dinner and a liquor license are on the way soon, says Choi, who is proud of his fish freezer, which chugs at 72 degrees below zero.

Alison Barshak's new restaurant in Fort Washington will be called Alison Two -- fitting that it will be Barshak's second restaurant, after Alison at Blue Bell. She is building out the old Marita's Cantina. She's blogging the progress here.

Bruce Kim, who won raves at Sushikazu in Blue Bell (that's two bell, right?), has sold his interest there and moved downtown. His new place is Misso, which rolled out on Jan 10 on the ground floor of Center City One (1326 Spruce St.). It replaces Miraku, which didn't stick around for long. Kim's menu incorporates the usual sushi/sashimi and mixes in some Asian fusion. Nothing too expensive. He also plans an elaborate video setup, by which patrons can order by pointing to food flashing on the screen. Phone is 215-546-2355.

Know how "Swiss Pastries" sprang up last week in the 19th Street storefront that until the week before Christmas was the venerable Swiss Pastry Shoppe? Name change! It's now known as Hausman's Bakery. I hear that the building's previous owner, Marvin "Moishe" Novick, complained through his lawyer to Jim Hausman, the bakery's new owner. Something about the "Swiss" in the name.

Hausman, who set up a new corporation, bought new equipment, and hired the women who worked there -- all for sentimental reasons -- would not comment. Neither would Novick.

Photo (2008): Sharon Gekoski-Kimmel

It's Joy Manning, who jumped ship from Philly Style late last year, as Kirsten Henri reports on Foobooz. Now... Should The Inquirer, whose critic was "outed" in the pages of Philly Mag, publish her photo? Yes, we agree. Too juvenile.

In the 11th week of "The Making of Zahav," in which The Inquirer follows the creation of a restaurant, we break down the $700,000 budget. Included: Pots, pans, china, electrical work, plumbing work and ... six trips to Israel. See it here.

Top restaurant in the region: Philadelphia Mag's February issue, out next week, ranks 50 eateries and says it's Osteria, the Italian newcomer on North Broad from Marc Vetri, Jeff Benjamin and Jeff Michaud. See Craig LaBan's review. (Now that you know this, you can spend more time reading the long takeout about Alycia Lane.)

The mag loves Vetri, all right; he was one of its people to watch in January's issue.

We're going to hear much more from chef Eric Ripert around dinnertime Tuesday (1/22), when he stands in the lobby of the Ritz-Carlton to introduce the concept of his forthcoming restaurant, 10 Arts, and the Philadelphia-bred chef, a woman, who will run it.

For now, here's a neat piece from New York mag on the food requirements of the dashing French chef from Le Bernardin.

It's six days till Center City District Restaurant Week, so let's head to OpenTable (the res system tied into Restaurant Week) to see what's available. The mission: a table for two on the first day (Jan. 27) at 7 p.m. at restaurants where the week's three- or four-course promotional price of $35 (plus beverages, tax and tip) might actually be a substantial discount. Not all restaurants are using OpenTable. Your results may vary.

Alma de Cuba: I'm pointed to 9:30 p.m. Jan. 28. That's it for the week.
Amada: Booked all week. As if you thought you'd get in.
Bistro 7: Tables at 5:30 and 9:30 p.m. Jan. 28. Nothing at 7 p.m. for the week.
Bistro St. Tropez: Wide open on Jan. 27 and all week.
Branzino: Nothing for Jan. 27. A 7 p.m. is available Jan. 29.
Brasserie Perrier: Nothing at 7 on Jan. 27, but quite a few at 5:30 and 8 or later. And 6:15 slots on Jan 30 and Jan. 31.
Cafe Spice: Wide open all week.
Cuba Libre: Nothing at 7 p.m. Jan. 27, but lots of 5:30 and 8:30 slots the rest of the week.
Davio's: Nothing on Jan. 27. There's a 9 p.m. Jan. 28 and 29, plus late tables the rest of the week.
Devon Seafood Grill: Nothing on Jan. 27. There's a 6:45 and a 7:15 on Jan. 28. Rest of the week fairly open.
El Vez: There are 5:30 and 8, 8:30 rezes scattered through Jan. 31. The lone opening on Feb. 1 is at 5 p.m.
Estia: Closest are the 6:45 tables on Jan. 28 and Jan. 29.
Gioia Mia: There's a 6:45 p.m. Jan. 27. Lots of openings rest of the week.
Grill at the Ritz-Carlton: Busy. Aside from the 5:30 on Jan. 29, it seems booked.
Il Portico: There's a 6:45 p.m. on Jan. 27. Seems fairly open the rest of the week.
La Famiglia: Jammed. There's a 9:30 on Jan. 29.
Le Castagne: Totally committed all week.
Los Catrines/Tequila's: There's an 8:30 on Jan. 27, but there's a 6:30 on Jan. 28 and a few scattered 6 p.m. slots the rest of the week.
McCormick & Schmick's: an 8 p.m. on Jan. 27, and 6:45/7:15 on Jan. 28; rest of the week is fairly open.
Meritage: Nothing on Jan. 27. A few 9 p.m. slots the rest of the week.
Nineteen: Nothing on Jan. 27. 5:30/9 p.m. on Jan. 28 and Jan. 29; 9:30 p.m. openings Jan. 30 and Jan. 31.
Oceanaire: Nothing on Jan. 27. A few 5:30, 9 or 9:30 spots the rest of the week.
Palace at the Ben: Lots of tables on Jan. 27 and rest of the week.
Philadelphia Fish & Co.: Only an 8:45 on Jan. 27, but 6:45/7:15 on Jan. 28 and scattered openings the rest of the week.
Phillips Seafood: An 8 p.m. table on Jan. 27. Wide open the rest of the week.
Positano Coast: A 6:30 and 7:30 on Jan. 27. Wide open the rest of the week.
Ruth's Chris: A 6 p.m. on Jan. 27 and a 6:45 p.m. on Jan. 29.
Smith & Wollensky: Booked solid all week.
Sotto Varalli/Upstares at Varalli: A 6:15 and 8 p.m. on Jan. 28. Lots of pre-7 p.m. seatings rest of the week.
Susanna Foo: Booked solid.
Swanky Bubbles: A 5:30 and 9 p.m. opening Jan. 28.
Tangerine: Almost booked; found a 9:30 on Jan. 28, a 9:15 on Jan. 29 and a 9 p.m. on Feb. 1.
Twenty Manning: Nothing on Jan. 27. Lots of 5:30/9/9:30 tables from Jan. 28 to Jan. 31.
Twenty21: A 6:30 and 7:30 on Jan. 27. Lots of openings rest of the week.
Valanni: An 8 p.m. on Jan. 27; a 6:30 and 7:30 p.m. on Jan. 28, plus other pre-8 p.m. openings the rest of the week.

For years, Finn McCool's was a hole in the wall at 12th and Sansom. The Sourias family, which bought it and the building several years ago, closed it last summer and gutted the joint. It's due to open soon -- son Teddy says Thursday 1/24, but this seems overly ambitious -- as an Irish pub with 16 taps on the first floor and a nightspot (DJ booth, bottle service) called Prime Lounge on the hitherto unused second floor. Fling-out doors should add a nice touch in warmer weather.

That Midtown Village neighborhood has been quite active lately. Finn's is down the block from Blue in Green, the breakfast-luncher that's soon to open. (I had erroneously located Blue in Green at 10th and Chestnut; it's at 12th and Chestnut.) And talk is growing that Jason Evanchik of Vintage on 13th Street is planning to renovate a watering hole on Sansom into something considerably more stylish and (lest I identify the existing joint) less Teutonic.

A Stephen Starr alum will give his old boss some competition in Atlantic City.

The Borgata in Atlantic City just hired two chefs, and one of them is Michael Schulson, who was chef at University City's Pod before he went to New York to open the Buddakan in Manhattan.

Schulson also did a show called Pantry Raid for the Style Network, in which he went into the kitchens of unsuspecting citizens and helped them cook with ingredients at hand.

Schulson will open what Borgata calls an "innovative Japanese restaurant and nightlife experience" in the space on the hotel-casino's restaurant row that formerly housed Susanna Foo's Suilan. There's no name yet. The new place will go up against Buddakan on the Pier at Caesars, one of Borgata's archrivals in A.C.

The other hire at Borgata is Manhattan’s Country & Town chef-owner Geoffrey Zakarian, who will create and oversee all food-and-beverage hospitality for the spa, pool, special events and in-room dining for the Borgata's new Water Club.

Photo of Schulson at Buddakan in a 2006 photo by Eric Mencher / Inquirer Staff Photographer

Eric Ripert, high hat at New York's Le Bernardin, dropped in Tuesday 1/22 to introduce the chef de cuisine of his newest restaurant, 10 Arts by Eric Ripert. Opens this spring (May?) in the rotunda of the historic building that houses the Ritz-Carlton. Hence the hard hats.

She's a Philly girl, Jennifer Carroll, 33. Grew up in the city's Somerton section -- stay-at-home mom Jean and race-car owner dad Ray -- and went to Mount St. Joseph Academy in Flourtown, as her Mountie classmates (1993) are proud to point out.

She went to the Catholic University in D.C. to study law, came home to St, Joe's, and decided to try culinary school instead. She's a grad of the Restaurant School here, followed by time in the Manayunk kitchens of Derek Davis at Sonoma and Arroyo Grille. After a year downtown at the late Avenue B, she escaped to San Francisco, where she worked at restaurants Julia (now closed) and Café Kati. She's sous chef at Le Bernardin, basically the No. 3 in one of the top-rated kitchens in North America.

Ripert told me that he sensed she was ready to head her own kitchen in January 2007 at her annual review. "She said, 'No, no. I'm not ready,' " he said, calling her "tough, when she needs to be." Her crew calls her "Jenny."

Concept at 10 Arts will be American cuisine with an emphasis on the organic and utilization of products from local farmers. The restaurant will have an "approachable" price point. "Le Bernardin, scaled down," says Carroll.

The Broad Axe at Butler and Skippack Pikes in central Montco, you may recall, has been under historic renovation for some time. Originally, the Belgian concept Beneluxx (operated by Michael Naessens of Old City's Beneluxx and Eulogy) was supposed to open there. That deal fell through. Construction is moving along, says inn owner Vic Meitner, who said he expects to sign a lease shortly with a new operator. An anonymous posting today on Chowhound.com from someone purporting to be a new operator is a tad optimistic, according to Meitner. He says he is in talks with several parties about running the Broad Axe and has nothing in writing.

John Mims, who has Carmine's Creole Cafe in Bryn Mawr (after two previous incarnations in Havertown and Narberth), reports that he'll make settlement tomorrow (1/25) on the three-level building at 114 S. 12th St. that most recently housed the private club space known as TPDS and long ago housed Odeon.

Mims has not come up with a name, but he says the concept will be Cajun-Creole; he'll do tapas in the lounge areas. His anticipated opening is April. Carmine's will stay open under chef Chris VanNes.

(Mims in Carmine's. Photo by Jonathan Wilson / Inquirer Staff Photographer)

The building at 114 Market St. that for a time housed DiPalma and more recently Club One 14 is on the market for $2.4 million.

The ad reads: "Three level, fully renovated restaurant/bar. Bar, wine cellar and kitchen on lower level. Main floor dining area and full kitchen. Upper level expanded seating area and kitchen. Four bathrooms in building. Make an Offer."

Not mentioned is the liquor license -- a very big deal in Old City, where the Old City Civic Association opposes new ones.

New York Mag's Grub Street reports that New York Supreme Court has ruled against "Iron Chef" Masaharu Morimoto in a suit brought against him by the investor and onetime customer who made him a star.

The court found that Morimoto owes business partner Don Fellner cuts of certain deals, including profits from the Morimoto restaurants with Stephen Starr in Philly and New York. Their partnership is called Moridon.

Starr himself is not implicated. The suit is between Morimoto and Fellner only.

Judge Herman Cahn said damages would be assessed at trial.

From Cahn's finding, we learn that:

* Starr owns 80 percent of the Philly restaurant, while Moridon owns 20 percent.

* The New York restaurant is a 50/50 split between Starr and Moridon.

* Morimoto picked up $20,000 for two days of taping "Iron Chef USA" plus one day of promotions.

Check out Russ Baker's wonderful Inquirer Magazine story from 2001, which touches on Morimoto and Fellner's relationship. This story was published on the eve of the opening of the Philadelphia restaurant.

In defending himself in Fellner v. Morimoto, Morimoto asserted that a head hunter had brought him and Starr together -- a side deal separate from his relationship with Fellner. (Baker's story quotes Starr as saying that a head hunter had brought them together.) The judge did not believe that the "head hunter" argument applied. Fellner and Morimoto already had an agreement, he said.

Top photo: Morimoto in 2001 by Michael Bryant / Inquirer Staff Photographer.
Bottom photo from ChefMorimoto.com: Morimoto (second to left), with Fellner in cap at right, on a 2001 trip to Hawaii.

Back in September 2006, restaurant pioneer Neil Stein and I had a long chat. He had plenty of time, as he was sixth months into a federal prison term after pleading guilty to tax evasion, surrounding the downfall of his former empire in a mess of booze, pills and month-long vacations.

What was he up to in the pokey? Keeping his nose clean and designing a swank restaurant-hotel-spa called "Wow!"

And now, a year and two weeks after walking out of the Federal Correctional Institution in Schuylkill County, he says he's one step closer to his next project.

But it'll be called Cabaret, not Wow!

Back in November, I reported on his talks with Gene Lefevre and Michael DiPaolo, who own a sweet little historic inn-slash-restaurant, the Morris House,catercorner from Pennsylvania Hospital. The inn's short-lived restaurant was called M, and it garnered wonderful reviews. Still, DiPaolo told me when he closed it last June, it was losing $5,000 a week. Ouch.

Stein says he has a better idea for the property. Partnered with Lindsay Ratkovich, a real estate developer ("I won't tell you how we met -- yet"), Stein is calling the place Cabaret. (Because life is, I guess.) He describes it as a bistro on the order of Rouge -- which introduced sidewalk dining to Rittenhouse Square back in 1998 -- with one standout feature: the garden tucked behind the restaurant. Not that the square itself, plopped across from the street from Rouge, was too shabby. Stein is a regular at Rouge; as part of a settlement, he signed over his interest in the bistro to his daughter Maggie, who runs it.

Cabaret's decor, by Marguerite Rodgers Ltd. (she did Striped Bass and Rouge), will feature "16 kinds of red," Stein says.

Rouge = red. Yes, we get it.

No chef is on board yet.

"Amazing," Stein keeps saying in all our recent conversations. "It's the most exciting project I've ever done." He hopes to be open by early summer.