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November 2007 Archives

November 4, 2007

November Gardening Tips

by Joe Daniels, Delaware County Master Gardener

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By November we're tired of chores and ready to appreciate the changes in foliage, so sit back and enjoy the colors of nature while you read what we should be doing in the garden:

Take a stroll through the late autumn garden, delight in savoring each bit of color, and marvel over every stalwart bloom. Even at this late date, and after a summer of stress, there is a remarkable amount of beauty in the yard. Some delightful combinations are still going strong.

Don't forget to drain and store hoses. Shut off and drain outdoor water taps (after giving your garden one last good soaking before winter)

Take stock of your gardening tools. Toss out what's beyond salvaging and note what needs replacing. Mend, clean, and oil the rest.

Give your Christmas list of gardening wants to family members and friends.

If you don't have a map of your garden, make one now (for winter planning).

After the ground freezes, add a thick layer of mulch. Cover plants needing extra protection with branches.

Finish putting in the last of the bulbs.

As you rake those leaves, don't forget to compost them! A compost pile* should be kept moist through late fall additions. Fertilizer can be added to speed up the process if few or no grass clippings are available. Mix the pile thoroughly.

Cut back perennials that are of no winter interest.

Set up and stock bird feeders with treats for the birds. Provide fresh water as well.

Drain garden hoses and sprinklers and store indoors.

Clean gardening tools.

Check all openings to your home that would allow squirrels or mice to enter; attic vents, building, joints, loose siding.

*Note from Marion: If you need information about composting, see my September 2 blog entry in the archives (scroll down and look to the right to find the archives).


Do you have a gardening question? In Delaware County, call our Master Gardeners hortline at 610-690-2671 on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9 AM-12 NOON.

UPCOMING MASTER GARDENERS EVENTS

November 10, 2007: Thanksgiving & Fall Flower Arrangement
We'll present great ideas for fall flower arrangements. Learn techniques to make your own one of a kind creation, whether in a pumpkin, bowl or basket. This is a hands-on workshop. Bring hand clippers or scissors. We supply the rest.

Registration required for all events. Please call 610-690-2655 for more information or visit our website

November 11, 2007

Compost Your Garden Debris!

Autumn%20Maple_1.jpgNote from Marion: It's garden clean-up time. What are you going to do with all those leaves and garden debris? How about starting a compost pile? Need a little advice? Check out the following article from Penn State’s Ag Sciences newsletter.

COMPOST HELPS YOUR LAWN AND GARDEN

It may seem easy to put those raked leaves in bags, and toss them out as garbage. However, a vegetable production specialist in Penn State's College of Agricultural Sciences says that composting leaves and other garden wastes is a convenient and conscientious way to help the environment.

"Many landfills no longer even accept leaves or garden wastes," says Bill Lamont, professor of vegetable crops. "Composting may be the easiest way for homeowners to dispose of them."

Composting decomposes organic matter into a dark, crumbly material similar to humus. Finished compost provides nutrients and helps soil retain water by increasing the valuable organic matter in the lawn and garden

Nearly 30 percent of the wastes homeowners throw away each year can be composted. "Leaves, plants killed by frost, vegetable scraps and grass clippings - all these materials can be composted," says Lamont. "You can start a compost pile now, and the compost process will continue through the coldest days of winter." Other items typically added to compost piles are coffee grounds, egg shells, sawdust and even small bits of paper.

It is important for the compost pile to contain a mix of carbon-and nitrogen-rich materials because both are essential for the microorganisms that do the decomposing. "Green, leafy wastes usually are high in nitrogen, while woody materials tend to be high in carbon," Lamont says. "Fertilizer and manure also are good nitrogen sources."

You may need to water the pile from time to time, as microorganisms that aid in composting need moisture. One way to gauge moisture is the squeeze test. "Tightly squeeze a handful of the material," Lamont says. "If a few droplets of water come out, it's just about right. If it looks and feels dry as a bone, hose down the compost pile."

Turn the pile every few weeks with a pitchfork to aerate it, as decomposition without oxygen can cause bad odors. By using a fair amount of coarse material, such as bulky plants or dry leaves, you can also ensure that the pile gets proper aeration. If you detect any odor, turn the pile.

"As long as the pile is large enough to insulate itself, it will continue to decompose at a slower rate throughout the winter without being turned," Lamont says. "When warm weather returns in the spring, begin turning it again. The compost is ready to use when the pile cools and the material is dark, crumbly and sweet-smelling, like soil."

Lamont adds that it is not essential to have a special compost bin; however, it is practical for those that live in close proximity to others. "You don't need a special compost bin, but unconfined heaps can be visually offensive to neighbors," says Lamont. "If you have neighbors living close by, you may want to consider using a compost bin.

Composting tools and bins are available at hardware stores and garden centers, or can be ordered from gardening catalogs. An inexpensive bin can be made from masonry blocks, boards, wire or snow fencing. "Make sure your bin is at least three feet high and three feet wide, so that it can hold enough material to function properly," says Lamont.


Do you have a gardening question? In Delaware County, call our Master Gardeners hortline at 610-690-2671 on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9 AM-12 NOON.

UPCOMING MASTER GARDENERS EVENTS

December 8, 2007: Wreath Making
Create a one-of-a-kind holiday wreath using fresh greens. This is a hands-on workshop. Bring pruners and rubber gloves. All other materials are provided. Sign up early! This is one of our most popular workshops. Cost: $15

Registration required for all events. Please call 610-690-2655 for more information or visit our website

November 18, 2007

Winter Mulch to the Rescue

We use mulch in our gardens to help retain soil moisture, decrease weeds, reduce erosion, help cool plant roots, and add organic matter to improve and feed the soil. But did you know that mulch can be used to help winterize your garden?

Winter mulch serves two purposes. First, it keeps soil temperature from fluctuating during a winter warm spell. A more even soil temperature reduces the chances of plants being pushed out of the soil by alternate cycles of heat and cold ( a process known as heaving).

Plants could also be harmed or killed if they start growing when soil temperature warms during a period of warmer weather. A layer of mulch will keep the soil frozen even during those winter warm spells.

The second purpose of winter mulch is to keep very cold temperatures from harming plants, especially those that are marginally hardy in our area. A layer of mulch can mean the difference between life and death for some plants.

Caution: wait for the ground to freeze and temperatures to remain consistently below freezing before applying winter mulch. If it’s applied too early, the soil will stay warm and moist too long—and that could result in disease.

And you thought you were finished with gardening chores after raking and shredding all those leaves. Before you settle down for a long winter's nap, give your plants a cozy mulch blanket!


Do you have a gardening question? In Delaware County, call our Master Gardeners hortline at 610-690-2671 on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9 AM-12 NOON.

UPCOMING MASTER GARDENERS EVENTS

December 8, 2007: Wreath Making
Create a one-of-a-kind holiday wreath using fresh greens. This is a hands-on workshop. Bring pruners and rubber gloves. All other materials are provided. Sign up early! This is one of our most popular workshops. Cost: $15

Registration required for all events. Please call 610-690-2655 for more information or visit our website

November 20, 2007

Still blooming in November!

I trotted out to the garden last week to do some leaf cleanup and look what I found!


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So it's only a few blooms, but it's enough to make me smile.

November 27, 2007

Preventing the spread of invasive plants

Invasive plants grow aggressively, spread like wildfire and displace other plants in our ecosystem. "Most people aren't aware of the damage invasive plants are inflicting on our biodiversity, our wildlife habitat and our native plant species," says Larry Kuhns, Penn State professor of ornamental horticulture. He offers the following advice to homeowners who would like to keep invasive plants in check on or near their property...

Prevent landscape disturbance. Invasives will thrive in bare soil or tilled earth where native plants have been displaced. "One key to controlling invasives is to protect healthy plant communities," Kuhns says.

Maintenance plans. Although most homeowners regularly maintain lawns and ornamental gardens, other property areas need maintenance as well. "Meadows should be mowed at least once a year," Kuhns advises. "In woodlands, owners should walk the property and eliminate invasive plants."

Go scouting. All homeowners should inspect their land every year.

Remove invasives early. If a homeowner has been scouting vigilantly, most invasive plants can be found when they are small and easily controlled. Kuhns warns that invasives should not be allowed to go to seed. "Digging or cutting out the offending plant is preferred," Kuhns says. "But large plant populations may need to be stopped using a herbicide. Only trained professionals should apply herbicides."

Replant after weeding. Invasive plants exploit bare soil and unused niches. "If you remove a weed, the invasive plant will come right back unless you substitute another plant," Kuhns says. "It's important to fill niches with plants that will provide seeds for the future."

Ready to take on this threat to our environment? Wondering what else you can do to prevent the spread of invasives? Plenty! Here are some ideas:

Start a campaign in your neighborhood by teaching your family, friends and neighbors about the negative ecological effects of invasive species.

Use native and non-invasive plant species in your home gardens. Don't buy purple loosestrife! (Hopefully, nurseries are no longer selling it.)

Learn more about non-invasive alternatives, how to control specific invasive plants, and selecting native plants.

Call our Master Gardener hortline to find out how to remove invasive plants from your landscape.

Prevent invasive plant seed spread by deadheading their flowers.

To get you started on your efforts to eliminate invasives from your property, here's a list of the ten invasive plant species most commonly found in Pennsylvania:

Tree of heaven
Autumn olive
Multiflora rose
Purple loosestrife
Japanese knotweed
Common Reed
Canada thistle
Poison hemlock
Japanese stiltgrass
Mile-a-minute vine


Do you have a gardening question? In Delaware County, call our Master Gardeners hortline at 610-690-2671 on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9 AM-12 NOON.

UPCOMING MASTER GARDENERS EVENTS

January 12, 2008: Holiday Gifts & Houseplants
Learn how to care for and maintain your holiday gardening gifts and houseplants. Cost: $10

Registration required for all events. Please call 610-690-2655 for more information or visit our website

Author

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Marion Yaglinski has nurtured an ever-evolving garden on her own little acre in Southeastern Pennsylvania since 1992. Her property in Delaware County is certified by the National Wildlife Federation as an official Wildlife Habitat. She is a Master Gardener with Pennsylvania State University's County Extension Program in Delaware County and also volunteers at Longwood Garden’s plant shop.


About November 2007

This page contains all entries posted to A Master Gardener's Journal in November 2007. They are listed from oldest to newest.

October 2007 is the previous archive.

December 2007 is the next archive.

Many more can be found on the main index page or by looking through the archives.

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