Note from Marion: Wondering how to care for that beautiful poinsettia you couldn't resist at the store? Did you know that it's possible to keep it for next year and see it rebloom? Warren Goll, our poinsettia expert, has all the information you need. Read on...
The Poinsettia; a very special plant
by Warren Goll, PSU Multi-County Greenhouse Extension Agent 
Selecting a Poinsettia
Bract Color - Look for plants with fully mature, thoroughly colored and expanded bracts (the colorful parts of the poinsettia). Avoid plants with too much green around the bract edges. Bracts come in white, pink, peach, yellow, marbled or speckled, as well as the traditional red. An abundance of dark, rich green foliage is a vital sign of good plant health. Look for plants with dense, plentiful foliage all the way down the stem.
Shape and Proportion - Proper proportion of plant height and shape relative to container size is the key to an aesthetically pleasing poinsettia. Plants should appear balanced, full and attractive from all angles. A generally accepted standard is that the plant should be approximately 2½ times taller than the diameter of the container.
Durability and Freshness - Select plants with stiff stems, good bract and leaf retention, and no signs of wilting, breaking or drooping. Be wary of plants displayed in paper, plastic or mesh sleeves. The longer a plant remains sleeved, the more the plant quality will deteriorate. Examine the soil of the plant. It’s best to avoid waterlogged soil, particularly if the plant appears wilted. This could be a sign of irreversible root rot. When transporting the plant, protect it from chilling winds and temperatures below 50º F. Re-inserting the poinsettia into a sleeve or a large, roomy shopping bag will usually provide adequate protection.
Keeping Your Poinsettia at Home
Location and Temperature - The poinsettia thrives on indirect, natural daylight. Exposure to at least six hours of light every day is recommended. If direct sun cannot be avoided, diffuse with a light shade or sheer curtain. To prolong the bright color of the poinsettia bracts, daytime temperatures should not exceed 70º F. Avoid placing the plants near drafts, excess heat or the dry air from appliances, fireplaces or ventilating ducts.
Water and Fertilizer - Poinsettias require moderately moist soil. Water the plants thoroughly when the soil surface feels dry to the touch. Remove the plant from decorative pots or covers, and water enough to completely saturate the soil. Do not allow the poinsettia to sit in any standing water; root rot could result which could kill the plant. It is not necessary to fertilize the poinsettia when it is in bloom.
After the Holidays - When the bracts age and lose their aesthetic appeal, usually by late March or early April, cut the poinsettia back to about 8 inches in height. By the end of May you should see vigorous new growth. Pruning may be required during the summer to keep plants bushy and compact, but do not prune after September 1. Keep the plants in indirect sun and water regularly. Place your plants outdoors, where they can bask in the warmth of spring and summer, after outside night temperatures average 55º F or above. Continue regular watering during the growth period. Fertilize every 2 to 3 weeks throughout the spring, summer and fall months with a well-balanced, complete fertilizer. Around June 1, you may transplant your poinsettias into larger pots. Select pots no more than 4 inches larger than the original inner pot. A soil mix with a considerable amount of organic matter, such as peat moss or leaf mold, is highly recommended..
Re-flowering - The poinsettia is a photoperiodic plant, meaning that it sets bud and produces flowers as the autumn nights lengthen. The plants will naturally come into full bloom during November or December, depending upon the flowering response time of the individual cultivar. Timing the bloom to coincide closely with the Christmas holiday can be difficult without the controlled environment of a greenhouse. Stray light of any kind, such as from outside street lights or household lamps, could delay or entirely halt the re-flowering process. Starting October 1, the plants must be kept in complete darkness for 14 continuous hours each night. Accomplish this by moving the plants to a totally dark room, or by covering them with a large box overnight. During October, November and early December, the plants require 6 - 8 hours of bright sunlight daily, with nighttime temperatures between 60 - 70º F. Following this regime for 8 to 10 weeks should result in a colorful display of blooms for the holiday season.
Do you have a gardening question? In Delaware County, call our Master Gardeners hortline at 610-690-2671 on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9 AM-12 NOON.
UPCOMING MASTER GARDENERS EVENTS
January 12, 2008: Holiday Gifts & Houseplants
Learn how to care for and maintain your holiday gardening gifts and houseplants. Cost: $10
Registration required for all events. Please call 610-690-2655 for more information or visit our website
As I lay musing this past Sunday morning, I noticed something was different. It had snowed lightly overnight and the sounds from outside were pleasantly muffled as a result, but the snow had done more: the leaf blowers were silent! For the last several weeks, they had run at full speed as if the operators were trying to clear the neighborhood of every last vestige of the past spring, summer, and fall. During the week, the hired landscapers were feverishly blowing piles of leaves into the street, but on weekends it was the weekend warriors at work. Homeowners armed with leaf blowers were blowing dirt, dust, and debris into the air with reckless abandon. Ah, but the first snow put them all to rest, at least for the moment. What a pleasant respite!
by guest blogger Mary Concklin, Montgomery County Extension Educator.
One method is to wrap them with burlap or plastic. Place stakes around the plant and wrap the material using the stakes to support it. Piling leaves in between the burlap and the plant provides added insulation. I don’t like to wrap the burlap tight around the plant because I lose the insulating air pocket. 