A Master Gardener's Journal

by Joe Daniels, Delaware County Master Gardener

Determine if your soil is ready to work by taking a handful and squeezing it. If it crumbles, then it is ready to plant. If not, wait several days and try again.

Cut and remove weeds near the garden to help prevent plant virus diseases. Clean out hiding places where slugs live.

Vegetable Gardens
Fertilize the vegetable garden before planting.

Plant asparagus and rhubarb now.

Start sowing cool-season vegetables (peas, carrots, beets, radishes, lettuce, spinach).

Set out transplants of cauliflower, cabbage and broccoli and collards.

Start seed indoors for summer crops (tomatoes, peppers, eggplant).

Lawns
Seed bare patches.

Cool season grasses can still be seeded. Keep the seeded areas moist to allow germination. (The mix recommended for this area is 70% Kentucky bluegrass, 20% perennial ryegrass, and 10% fine fescue).

Before you begin cutting, replace the blade on your mower. An old mower blade is going to tear your grass and put a lot of stress on it.

Never cut more than a third of a blade of grass (in one pass). That means if your lawn grows to a small jungle in the spring, trim the grass slowly until you get it to the length you would like.

It has been suggested to use four step fertilization products available at most hardware stores. But remember to follow the directions.

Perennials, Biennials, and Annuals
Fertilize as growth begins.

Gradually remove winter mulch.

Continue to divide and transplant.

Plant cool season annuals (pansies, sweet peas, snapdragons).

Enjoy your time outside, put an energy bar in your back pocket and keep going.

For Joe’s tips on houseplants, bulbs and roses, go to April Gardening Tips

Do you have a gardening question? In Delaware County, call our Master Gardeners hortline at 610-690-2671 on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9 AM-12 NOON.

UPCOMING MASTER GARDENERS EVENTS

Registration required for all events except Arbor Day. Please call 610-690-2655 for more information or visit our website

Trees are amazing. They improve air quality by filtering the air we breathe as they take in carbon dioxide and give off oxygen (which, by the way, helps stop global warming). Trees offer shade to cool our homes in the summer and block harsh winds in the winter. They add beauty to our landscapes, provide food and shelter for wildlife and supply us with fruits and nuts.

Even dead trees are valuable. According to a PSU newsletter article, dead and deteriorating trees "release nutrients, prevent erosion, store moisture, protect seedlings and supply food and shelter for wildlife. "

Need more of a reason to plant a tree? The Union of Concerned Scientists’ latest report states, “The climate of Pennsylvania is changing. Records show that spring is arriving earlier, summers are growing hotter, and winters are becoming warmer and less snowy. New state-of-the-art research shows that if global warming emissions continue to grow unabated, Pennsylvania can expect dramatic changes in climate over the course of this century.”

And how about this reason? "The net cooling effect of a young, healthy tree is equivalent to ten room-size air conditioners operating 20 hours a day."—U.S. Department of Agriculture

Let’s plant trees! Here’s a special invitation from Delaware County Master Gardeners: Please join us for our free Arbor Day Celebration on Saturday, April 26 at Smedley Park. We’ll be teaching kids (and adults) all about trees and how to plant them. No reservation is required--just show up. For information, contact Elsie Mueller at 610-626-7210 or email.

Do you have a gardening question? In Delaware County, call our Master Gardeners hortline at 610-690-2671 on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9 AM-12 NOON.

UPCOMING MASTER GARDENERS EVENTS

Registration required for all events except Arbor Day. Please call 610-690-2655 for more information or visit our website

by Tracey L. Carson, Delaware County Master Gardener

A new and exciting program has blown into Chester, and once again the Delaware County Master Gardeners are at the helm. As if the volunteer work that they already do at the Main Street School in the Chester-Upland School District, the Intergenerational Gardens at 6th and Morton Streets, and the Eastside Ministries at 9th and Porter Streets wasn’t enough, now this energetic group of volunteers has taken on a remarkably innovative project at the Center for the Blind and Visually Impaired. These efforts are being led by Master Gardeners Hope Jones-Gary and Barbara Wark. The Center is located on 15th Street, one block from Rte. 352, near Widener.

The Master Gardeners are working hand-in-hand with the Center’s Educational Director, Rod Powell. Since its implementation in October, the venture has been an overwhelming success. The clients are extremely enthusiastic and thrilled about the undertaking.

The activities take place twice a month. Stage one began with improving the soil in the planting beds, after they were immaculately weeded by Center patrons. Stage two followed with Hope Jones-Gary first explaining the process for planting spring bulbs, and then full participation in a hands-on-segment. The Master Gardeners have phased into a wide range of indoor gardener recreations for the winter, which include regular presentations and activities throughout the season.

Despite the fact that the Delaware County Master Gardener volunteer organization remains diligently in service at places such as the Broomall Presbyterian Nursing Home, Holcomb House in Aston, Melmark Home in Berwyn, Family Matters Day Care in Clifton Heights, Mischa House in Media, and Merry Place Playground and Garden in Havertown, Chester always remains at the forefront of their selfless endeavors. For more information about these programs, and others, contact Delaware County Master Gardener Coordinator Linda Barry at 610-690-2655, or visit their website.

Do you have a gardening question? In Delaware County, call our Master Gardeners hortline at 610-690-2671 on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9 AM-12 NOON.

UPCOMING MASTER GARDENERS EVENTS

Registration required for all events except Arbor Day. Please call 610-690-2655 for more information or visit our website

May is the perfect month to visit a public garden, so Delaware County Master Gardeners have planned a bus trip on Saturday, May 17, 2008 to visit the gardens of River Farm and Mount Vernon Estate and Gardens in Alexandria, VA. And we’re inviting you to join us! Yes, you read correctly. You can join us for this exciting trip.

Both gardens were originally part of George Washington’s five farms. River Farm, which is now the home of the American Horticultural Society, features their Growing Connection Demonstration Garden. This garden is part of AHS’s Growing Connection program, which was designed to educate children about the science of growing food. The Farm also has an estate house, perennial gardens, a wildlife garden, a meadow garden, a children’s garden, an orchard, and a shade garden.

Take advantage of this special opportunity to travel with Master Gardeners to a superb location for only $55. We’ll be traveling in an air-conditioned motor coach equipped with a lavatory. Cost includes transportation, admissions, snacks and gratuity.

For more information, call our county extension office at 610-690-2655. Space is limited, so call now.

Do you have a gardening question? In Delaware County, call our Master Gardeners hortline at 610-690-2671 on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9 AM-12 NOON.

UPCOMING MASTER GARDENERS EVENTS

Registration required for all events except Arbor Day. Please call 610-690-2655 for more information or visit our website

by Janice Duffin, Delaware County Master Gardener

Anyone who has called the Delaware County Master Gardeners HortLine with a question about lawn care was probably asked this very question--and with good reason. A soil test is the only way to determine which nutrients are present in the soil and in what amounts, so you can determine whether the soil is over or under-fertilized. And, yes, you can over-fertilize, which can result in plant injury, poor use of existing nutrients in the soil and poor plant growth. Over-fertilizing also pollutes groundwater and is a waste of money.

The soil test will also tell you the pH of the soil, which is simply an indicator of the soil acidity or alkalinity. You need this information to determine whether your soil needs to be amended with lime. If the pH is too high or too low, plants cannot use the nutrients in the soil. No matter how much fertilizer you apply, it doesn’t do much good if the plants can’t use it. It’s surprising how many grass seed suppliers suggest that an application of lime be applied prior to seeding in the absence of a soil test. Don’t do it. Get a soil test first and follow the recommendations from the Penn State Lab regarding lime application.

You don’t need to hire a professional lawn service to have your soil tested. Soil test kits come with complete directions and are easy to do. Simply take soil samples from the area of concern, mail it to Penn State Labs, and you’ll receive a report in a few weeks or less. Kits are available at the Delaware County Extension Office in Smedley Park for $9.00 each--and that’s a bargain. Skeptical? Call around and see how much your local landscaper charges. See you in the office!

Do you have a gardening question? In Delaware County, call our Master Gardeners hortline at 610-690-2671 on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9 AM-12 NOON.

UPCOMING MASTER GARDENERS EVENTS

Registration required for all events except Arbor Day. Please call 610-690-2655 for more information or visit our website for a registration form.

Don’t wait till August when your plants are wilted and suffering from leaf scorch to develop a watering plan. And don’t wait till we have a drought emergency to think about helping your garden survive in a dry season. Be proactive! Here are ten easy ways to keep your plants happy and conserve water in your garden this summer:

Measure rainfall with a rain gauge to determine when to water. I keep a rainfall chart so I know when to water—if it’s less than one inch per week, I turn on the soaker hoses.

Water plants early in the morning. Water doesn't evaporate as quickly in the morning as it does in the heat of the afternoon. And it’s good to give your plants a drink to prepare them for the hot day ahead.

Water less frequently but deeply. Frequent shallow watering results in weak shallow roots. Less frequent but thorough watering encourages roots to grow deep, where the soil stays moist longer.

Water the soil, not the plants. The sun can burn wet foliage. Use a watering can, water wand, soaker hose or drip irrigation to saturate the soil while leaving the foliage dry.

Mulch your plants! A two- to three-inch layer of organic mulch (shredded leaves or compost) keeps the soil cooler, slows water runoff and—as an added bonus--feeds the soil as it breaks down.

Avoid pruning, fertilizing or applying pesticides during dry spells. These actions would put additional stress on your plants.

Don’t plant when it’s dry. All newly established plants require regular watering to survive. Plant in spring or fall, not summer.

Choose drought-tolerant plants. Plants with silvery, hairy or fuzzy leaves have low water requirements: Plants with long taproots, such as butterfly weed and baptisia are good choices also.

Cut down on mowing, fertilizing and watering. Let your lawn go dormant. Mowing causes water loss. Mow during the coolest part of the day and leave the clippings, which return a little moisture to the lawn. Raise the mowing height. Taller grass shades the soil, reducing water loss. Most turf grasses are adapted to summer drought. They turn a nice buff brown color as they go dormant and send their water reserves down to the roots. Don't worry--your lawn will green up again in fall when temperatures are cooler.

Use rain barrels to collect and recycle rain water. Connect your downspouts to rain barrels to collect rain water and use it for your garden or container plants.

Taking these steps will keep your garden happy and protect the water supply. For more information, go to PSU’s Drought Tips

Do you have a gardening question? In Delaware County, call our Master Gardeners hortline at 610-690-2671 on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9 AM-12 NOON.

UPCOMING MASTER GARDENERS EVENTS

Registration required for all events except Arbor Day. Please call 610-690-2655 for more information or visit our website for a registration form.

by Nancy Simons, Delaware County Master Gardener

Many people would be surprised to know we are cultivating plants in our own gardens that originated centuries ago. Herbs, plants and flowers in common use today are mentioned in the Bible and several ancient texts as “cures” or “remedies” for certain conditions. While we use great care in recommending uses of these plants for various ailments, every part of the plant - the roots, stems, leaves, flowers and seeds--can be used in herbal preparations.

Traditional naturopaths, those who believe and practice the principle that the body heals itself through natural means, have long recommended herbal and flower preparations to their patients. Every shrub, tree, plant and flower is an herb, and every one is useful in some way. In fact, 75% of all prescribed medicines are derived from herbs. We are still discovering uses for those common plants we tend so lovingly in our gardens each season.

For example, milkweed (Asclepias)--usually thought of as an annoying invader--has some very useful properties. It is valued for its insulating ability and can be used as stuffing for pillows and jackets. Cattail (Typha latifolia) roots are similar in nature. Its crushed pods can be used as food. Cattail leaves are used for decorative purposes and for ringworm, poison ivy and other skin problems.

Raspberry root bark (Rubus idaeus) has been used to treat many illnesses, including those relating to womens’ painful monthly menstrual cycles. It has been also used as a uterine relaxant for childbirth. Red clover (Trifolium praetense) tea is prescribed by naturopaths to treat colds and fevers, and in salve form to soothe burns and rashes. Similarly, tarragon (Artemesia dracunculus) can be used to treat bruises and swellings. Arnica (Arnica montana) provides the same properties.

Milk thistle (Lactuca scariola L.) is used to cleanse the liver, especially after a course of strong prescription drugs or chemotherapy. It aids in carrying bile from the liver and is used in the treatment of cirrhosis of the liver and hepatitis.

Bee balm (Monarda didyma) and basil (Ocimum basilicum) are good examples of herbs which can be used as antidotes to bee stings. As a rule, herbs which attract bees can be used to treat stings. Crushed leaves applied to the area will relieve pain and swelling.

Very fragrant herbs such as cinnamon (C. zeylanicum), thyme (Thymus vulgaris), rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) and cloves (Eugenia aromatica) are used as internal disinfectants and add character to food. These herbs were used to preserve foods in ancient times.

These are a few of the common plants founds in our modern gardens. Hundreds of plants are available in our zone for every-day use. Preparation or consumption of these herbs should not be undertaken without the counsel of a professional trained in their use, as some substances may cause allergic reactions.

However, herbs have also been a contributing factor to human health in relieving pain, curing illness and supplying food. What a wealth of goodness awaits as our gardens begin to come alive again with these miracles of antiquity.

Nancy Simons, Ph D. ND is a Certified Traditional naturopath who grows her own herbs and makes soaps, lotions and other natural preparations from her garden.

Do you have a gardening question? In Delaware County, call our Master Gardeners hortline at 610-690-2671 on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9 AM-12 NOON.

UPCOMING MASTER GARDENERS EVENTS

Registration required for all events except Arbor Day. Please call 610-690-2655 for more information or visit our website for a registration form.

Japanese beetles are disgusting in all their forms—grubs and adults. I shudder every time I find one of those yucky white grubs curled up in my soil. And I freak when I find hordes of adults munching away on foliage and flowers. There’s something about the hard metallic look of their little bodies that gives me the creeps.

But the worst part is not their looks—it’s their ability to wreak havoc in the garden. Those little devils can defoliate a plant in record time. And did you know that grubs overwinter in the soil and damage lawns by feeding on grass roots as they head to the soil surface to become adults?

Expect adult beetles to emerge in late June, bent on destruction. Look for swarms of adults on your favorite plants in July. Some of the adult’s 300 favorite edibles include flowering cherry, flowering crabapple, linden, elm, birch, roses, zinnias, Virginia creeper, Boston ivy, Canna, Rose of Sharon and marigolds. I suspect they’re like deer—they’ll eat anything if they’re hungry enough.

Adult Japanese beetles like hot weather and full sun. That’s why I make beetle rounds at 12 Noon on sunny days. I shake beetle-encrusted leaves over a jar of soapy water, which results in the end of their eating orgy and their ultimate death.

If you prefer to use insecticides, apply according to label directions from late June through July when adults first appear and before damage occurs. If repeat applications are needed, read and follow label directions.

Be very careful when using pesticides. Here’s a warning from Penn State Extension: Pesticides are poisonous. Read and follow directions and safety precautions on labels. Handle carefully and store in original labeled containers out of the reach of children, pets, and livestock. Dispose of empty containers right away, in a safe manner and place. Do not contaminate forage, streams, or ponds.

Since my land is a certified wildlife habitat, I prefer a more natural approach—milky spore powder or beneficial nematodes. These natural alternatives to pesticides are not harmful to beneficial insects, birds, bees, pets, people or water.

For more information, go to PSU’s Japanese Beetle Fact Sheet

Do you have a gardening question? In Delaware County, call our Master Gardeners hortline at 610-690-2671 on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9 AM-12 NOON.

UPCOMING MASTER GARDENERS EVENTS

Registration required for all events except Arbor Day. Please call 610-690-2655 for more information or visit our website for a registration form.

by Barbara Smith, Delaware County Master Gardener

Go on, admit it. You’re charmed by sweet peas every time you see them in buckets at farmer’s markets, tumbling over neighbor’s fences, filling vases at friends’ desks and tabletops. When you draw close to those fluttery blooms and inhale their rich perfume, you want them in your garden. But then you realize it’s already late spring and well past planting time.

If that scenario sounds familiar, here’s your reminder. In our cold climate, February and March are the preferred months to start seed indoors for transplanting outside as soon as the soil can be worked. If you’ve never grown sweet peas before, you’re in for a treat. Besides the familiar vining types, there are now dwarf varieties perfect for pots and hanging baskets. Sweet peas will still grow despite our notorious hot summers, but they will not bloom as long--maybe only for six weeks.

Choose from single colors, like vivid orange or rich purple, or whisper-soft pastel blends. Ready to try? Buy a packet or two of seeds and then follow the planting tips below. When the flowers appear in spring, you’ll be glad you did.

Growing and care
Sweet peas do best in organically rich, well-drained soil. If your garden soil lacks these attributes, try this technique: Dig a trench 1 to 1½ feet deep. Mix 1 part peat moss or other soil conditioner with 2 parts soil. Backfill the trench with the mix, then plant seeds. Mulch with compost to keep roots cool. Seeds should germinate in 10 to 14 days.

When seedlings of vining types have three or four sets of leaves, encourage branching by pinching off the tops. Gently guide lengthening shoots through wire or string mesh to enhance support.

Water sweet peas regularly by hand or with a soaker hose to keep soil moist; avoid wetting the foliage. Feed plants every few weeks with dilute fish emulsion.

Once plants start flowering, pick off faded blossoms as often as daily or plants will start setting seed and bloom will stop. The best stems for bouquets have a few bottom buds open with the top ones getting ready to open.

SOURCES: Enchanting Sweet Peas 800/371-0233, Fragrant Garden Nursery or 541/412-8840, Renee’s Garden 888/880-7 228.

For further guidance, check out The Sweet Pea Book by Graham Rice (Timber Press, 2002)

Do you have a gardening question? In Delaware County, call our Master Gardeners hortline at 610-690-2671 on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9 AM-12 NOON.

UPCOMING MASTER GARDENERS EVENTS

Registration required for all events. Please call 610-690-2655 for more information or visit our website for a registration form.