What was left out of today's Inquirer story about bakers preserving the grand tradition of 100-year-old trans fats was how the testimony, and witnesses offering it up, served to underline the assets Philadelpha has that you will be hard-pressed to find in any other major city in this country. Where else are you going to get five different bakers who can boast at least three generations of family, going back at least 50 years, and making stuff that people are more than happy to kill themselves with?
Indeed, as the hearing went on, and bakers piled up their wares on a sample table in front of the Council members, the committee seemed to fall into a swoon, the substance of the hearing becoming less important than ending it and tearing into the trans-fat laden goodies. There was another table of non-transfat items -- our daring columnist Monica Yant Kinney will give us the results of her taste-test on Sunday!
Particularly controversial at the hearing was the notion of "tradition" among the bakeries.
Vince Termini's said his father came over from Sicily in 1921 with his original recipes. He said he tried to change to trans-fat free oils, and his Cannolis came out soaked in oil. The people he said, "Would like a nice cannoli, or a nice piece of cake." Talk to me, Vince!
But others ridiculed the thought that Papa Termini was cooking up cannolis in Siciliy with Crisco or some other trans-fat, because it wasn't widely used until the middle of the century.
Enraged reader, Marco Federico wrote: "This needs to be discussed. Cannolis originate in Sicily, from a time before Trans Fats ever existed. This crap about old family recipes is
total bull*#@$&!t. Transfats come from corporate food laboratories, not
any "old country". This is a fallacy that must be brought to light.
Look, its a matter of these bakers finding out what was used before
transfats hit the markets. It cheaper and they make a bigger profit
by using transfats. And at the expense of our health.
Its easy and convenient to appeal to hearts of romantics who say "
oh, our old world traditions are in danger". Please, Mr, Shields, I
beg you to consider this and research this matter further.
I did, a little. Scientist Paul Sabatier developed the hydogenization process in the 1890s, and Crisco first was available in 1911 (though grocers in Sciacca probably weren't selling it).
"You can be assured that bakeries in Sicily were certainly not using partially-hydrogenated oil in 1921," Michael Jacobson, executive director for the D.C.-based Center for Science in the Public Interest, testified yesterday.
What the transfats do is allow for greater shelf life and lighter texture, the bakers said.
In the end, it came down to letting the people pick their poison, though many cautioned that trans-fat is a bad bad thing to put in your body, like lead paint or nicotine. Councilman Brian O'Neill, who left the meeting early, said the ban on trans fat for bakers (which he originally voted for) had crossed the "fine line between educating the public and becoming the food police."
The cannoli cops lost yesterday, though baker Richard Haegele, who inherited Haegele's Bakery in Mayfair from his father in 1955, said he expected a suitable to substitute to arrive soon.
"It's not the same," he said. "There wlll be a day when they have that, it's just not here yet."